針織學(xué)(雙語)課件Chapter4

1、1Chapter 4The four primary base weft knitted structures24.1 Introduction 引言引言nFour primary structures Plain 緯平針緯平針 Rib 羅紋羅紋 Interlock 雙羅紋雙羅紋,棉毛棉毛 Purl 雙反面雙反面34.1 Introduction 引言引言nFour machines Single-jersey machines 單面機(jī)單面機(jī) Rib machines 羅紋機(jī)羅紋機(jī) Interlock machines 雙羅紋機(jī)雙羅紋機(jī),棉毛機(jī)棉毛機(jī) Purl machines 雙反面機(jī)雙反面

2、機(jī)44.2 Plain structure 緯平針組織緯平針組織nIntroduction Hosiery 長襪長襪 Fully fashioned knitwear 全成形針織品全成形針織品 Single-jersey fabrics 單面針織物單面針織物Used in the follow products5nIntroductionTechnical face Smooth Having the appearance of columns of Vs in wales.6nIntroductionTechnical backHaving the appearance of columns

3、 of interlocking semi-circles.7nIntroductionThe properties Unrove 橫向脫散橫向脫散 Laddering 縱向脫散縱向脫散8nIntroductionThe properties curl/卷邊卷邊 stretching/拉伸拉伸9nIntroductionThe properties 3-dimensional structure104.2.1 Production of single-jersey fabric/單面針織物單面針織物 on a circular latch needle machine/舌針圓機(jī)舌針圓機(jī)Cone

4、 紗筒紗筒Overhead bobbin stand 機(jī)頂紗架機(jī)頂紗架Free-standing creel 落地紗架落地紗架Winding-down mechanism 牽拉卷取機(jī)構(gòu)牽拉卷取機(jī)構(gòu)11Compared with the rib machine Simpler and more economical More feeders Higher running speeds Knitting a wider range of yarn counts124.2.1.1 The knitting head 編織機(jī)構(gòu)編織機(jī)構(gòu)1.Yarn feeder guide /導(dǎo)紗器導(dǎo)紗器2.Latch

5、 needle /舌針舌針3.Holding-down sinker /握持沉降片握持沉降片4.Needle cylinder /針筒針筒5.Cylinder driving wheel /針筒托盤針筒托盤6.Cylinder driving gear /針筒傳動齒輪針筒傳動齒輪7. Sinker-operating cams /沉降片三角沉降片三角8. Sinker cam-cap /沉降片三角座沉降片三角座139.Sinker trick ring /沉降片圓環(huán)沉降片圓環(huán)10.Needle-retaining spring /箍簧箍簧11.Needle-operating cams /織針

6、三角織針三角12.Cam-box /三角座三角座13.Cam-plate /三角底板三角底板14.Head plate /針筒底盤針筒底盤15.Cylinder driving pinion/小齒輪小齒輪 attached to the main drive shaft/主傳動軸主傳動軸144.2.1.2 The knitting action 成圈過程成圈過程Rest positionClearing Yarn feedingKnock-overHolding-down154.2.1.3 The cam system 三角系統(tǒng)三角系統(tǒng)1.Clearing cam /退圈三角退圈三角2.Sti

7、tch cam /彎紗三角彎紗三角,成圈三角成圈三角3.Upthrow cam /回針三角回針三角4.6.Guard cam /護(hù)針三角護(hù)針三角5.Return cam /回針三角回針三角The needle cam race 針三角軌道針三角軌道167.Race cam /平軌道三角平軌道三角8.Sinker-withdrawing cam /沉降片挺出三角沉降片挺出三角9.Sinker-return cam /沉降片回退三角沉降片回退三角The sinker cam race 沉降片三角軌道沉降片三角軌道174.2.1.4 Sinker timing 沉降片對位沉降片對位Push poin

8、t: The most forward position of the sinker during the knitting cycle. Sinker timing: The relationship between the push point and the needles. 184.3 Rib structure 羅紋組織羅紋組織The simplest rib fabric is 11 rib.19Characteristics of rib Has a vertical cord/凸條凸條 appearance More expensive to produce than plai

9、n Be elastic, form-fitting/適體適體, and retain warmth /保暖保暖better than plain Requires finer yarn than a similar gauge/機(jī)號機(jī)號 plain machine20Properties of 11 rib Has the appearance of the technical face of plain fabric on both sides without stretch Relaxes by approximately 30 per cent compared with its kn

10、itting width21Properties of 11 rib Lies flat without curl Can be unroved from the end knitted last Cannot be unroved from the end knitted first22Suitable for the extremities of articles: Tops of socks 襪口襪口 Cuffs of sleeves 袖口袖口 Borders of garments 下擺下擺 Stolling and strapping for cardigans/開衫毛衫開衫毛衫23

11、4.3.1 Rib set-outs 羅紋配置羅紋配置 Single or simple ribs 窄羅紋窄羅紋 Broad ribs 寬羅紋寬羅紋21, 31, etc63, 32, etc24 Swiss rib 瑞士羅紋瑞士羅紋 Skeleton 11 rib 2隔隔1抽針羅紋抽針羅紋25nEnglish rib 英式羅紋英式羅紋264.3.2 The knitting action of the circular rib machine/羅紋圓機(jī)成圈過程羅紋圓機(jī)成圈過程 Yarn feeding 墊紗墊紗Knocking-over 脫圈脫圈Clearing 退圈274.3.3 Need

12、le timing 針的對位針的對位It is the relationship between the loop-forming positions/成圈成圈位置位置 of the dial and cylinder needles.28nSynchronized timing 同步成圈同步成圈 Also know as point, jacquard and 22 timing High tension during loop formation29Delayed timing 滯后成圈滯后成圈 Also called rib or interlock timing Fabric is t

13、ighter and has better rigidity Rib jacquard or broad ribs cannot be produced in this way30Advanced timing 超前成圈超前成圈Be sometimes used in the production of figured ripple double-jersey fabrics/花式波紋花式波紋羅紋組織羅紋組織.314.4 Interlock structure 雙羅紋雙羅紋(棉毛棉毛)組織組織 It has the technical face of plain fabric on both

14、sides. The wales on each side are exactly opposite to each other and are locked together.32characteristics It lies flat without curl Relaxes by about 30-40 per cent or more, compared with its knitted width Not unrove from the end knitted first Thicker, heavier and narrower than rib of equivalent gau

15、ge Requires a finer, better, more expensive yarn334.4.1 Production of interlock fabric 雙羅紋組織的編織雙羅紋組織的編織nAn interlock machine must have the following: Interlock gating 雙羅紋配置雙羅紋配置 Two separate cam systems in each bed Needles set out alternately34nNeedles of interlock machine : Long needles 長針（低踵針）長針（低

16、踵針） Short needles 短針（高踵針）短針（高踵針）354.4.2 Example of an interlock cam system 雙羅紋三角系統(tǒng)舉例雙羅紋三角系統(tǒng)舉例nThe cylinder cam system : A clearing cam 退圈三角退圈三角 B stitch cam 成圈三角成圈三角 C guard cam 護(hù)針三角護(hù)針三角 D upthrow cam 回針三角回針三角 E,F guard cam 護(hù)針三角護(hù)針三角 G,H guide cam 導(dǎo)針三角導(dǎo)針三角36The dial cam system : 1 raising cam 起針三角起針三

17、角 2,3 dial knock-over cam 針盤脫圈三角針盤脫圈三角 4 guard cam 護(hù)針三角護(hù)針三角 5 auxiliary knock-over cam 輔助脫圈三角輔助脫圈三角 6,7 guide cam 導(dǎo)針三角導(dǎo)針三角 8 swing type clearing cam 擺動退圈三角擺動退圈三角4.4.2 Example of an interlock cam system 雙羅紋三角系統(tǒng)舉例雙羅紋三角系統(tǒng)舉例374.5 Purl structure 雙反面組織雙反面組織Purl structures can be achieved with double-ended

18、 latch needles/雙頭舌針雙頭舌針 or by rib loop transfer/羅紋移圈羅紋移圈 from one bed to the other, combined with needle bed racking/針床橫移針床橫移.38 The tricks/針槽針槽 are opposite to each other and in the same plane. So the single set of purl needles/雙頭舌針雙頭舌針 can be transferred across to knit outwards from either bed.39C

19、haracteristics of 11 purl Lateral stretch/橫向拉伸橫向拉伸 is equal to plain Length-wise elasticity/縱向彈性縱向彈性 is almost double Can be unroved from both ends When relaxed, it is twice as thick as plain40Another simple purl Moss stitch 桂花針桂花針 Basket purls 席紋組織席紋組織41Machines for purl structure Flat bed purls 雙反

20、面橫機(jī)雙反面橫機(jī) -no longer built Circular purls (double cylinder machines) 雙針筒圓機(jī)雙針筒圓機(jī) Electronically-controlled V-bed rib machines 電腦橫機(jī)電腦橫機(jī)42 Engagement/嚙合嚙合 of the head of the receiving slider/接針導(dǎo)針片接針導(dǎo)針片 with the needle hook/針鉤針鉤4 Necessary conditions:4.5.1 Purl needle transfer action 雙頭舌針的轉(zhuǎn)移運(yùn)動雙頭舌針的轉(zhuǎn)移運(yùn)動43

21、 Cam action causing the head of the delivering slider/送針導(dǎo)針片送針導(dǎo)針片 to pivot outwards from the trick/針槽針槽 4 Necessary conditions:4.5.1 Purl needle transfer action 雙頭舌針的轉(zhuǎn)移運(yùn)動雙頭舌針的轉(zhuǎn)移運(yùn)動44 Sufficient free space to allow the heads of the sliders to pivot outwards from their tricks 45 A positive action which

22、maintains the engagement of the head of a slider with a needle hook throughout its knitting cycle464.5.2 The use of dividing cams 分針三角的應(yīng)用分針三角的應(yīng)用The principle of the dividing cam operation is that it forms a wedge shape/楔形楔形 of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the

23、 under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送針導(dǎo)針片送針導(dǎo)針片.47The principle of the dividing cam operation is that it forms a wedge shape/楔形楔形 of increasing thickness between the upper surface of the needle hook and the under surface of the extended nose of the delivering slider/送針導(dǎo)針片送針導(dǎo)針片