1028扎根美國(guó)土壤 跨越文化差異 --- 美報(bào)評(píng)黃頤銘小說(shuō)《初來(lái)乍到》《雙杯愛(ài)》之一.doc

扎根美國(guó)土壤 跨越文化差異 - 美報(bào)評(píng)黃頤銘小說(shuō)初來(lái)乍到雙杯愛(ài)之一張鐵城2016、10、28發(fā)送張鐵城下載111 No.60參考消息2016/6/14扎根美國(guó)土壤 跨越文化差異 - 美報(bào)評(píng)黃頤銘小說(shuō)初來(lái)乍到雙杯愛(ài)美國(guó)紐約時(shí)報(bào)：亞裔名廚黃頤銘的多面人生 毒舌+嘻哈+寫(xiě)作【相關(guān)下載】（英漢對(duì)照文本）Eddie Huang Transcends Celebrity Chefdom Again ByJON CARAMANICA May 31, 2016 Ike Edeani for The New York Times【相關(guān)下載】（上述文章的英語(yǔ)原文）Eddie Huang Transcends Celebrity Chefdom Again ByJON CARAMANICA May 31, 2016 Ike Edeani for The New York Times【相關(guān)下載】（英漢對(duì)照文本）Eddie Huang Transcends Celebrity Chefdom Again ByJON CARAMANICA May 31, 2016 Ike Edeani for The New York Times時(shí)間:2016-06-01 11:00:07來(lái)源:可可英語(yǔ) 編輯:shaun Afewyearsago,afterEddieHuangsubmittedthemanuscriptofhismemoir“FreshOfftheBoat,”whichmadeampleuseoffootnotes,hiseditor,Chris Jackson,askedhimifhedreadfellowfootnoterJunotDaz.Hehadnot.幾年前，黃頤銘(EddieHuang)交出了自己的回憶錄初來(lái)乍到(FreshOfftheBoat)的草稿，里面有大量腳注，他的編輯克里斯杰克遜(ChrisJackson)問(wèn)他是不是讀過(guò)另一位愛(ài)加腳注的作家朱諾迪亞斯(JunotDaz)的書(shū)，黃頤銘說(shuō)沒(méi)有?！癐haverealgapsinmyliteraryhistory,”Mr.Huangsaidrecently,withhissignatureblendofself-deprecationandupstartbravado. “Number1,ImChinese,andNumber2,ImfromOrlando.Sohelpme,fam!”“我的閱讀史中確實(shí)有很多空白，”黃頤銘在不久前說(shuō)道，這種自我貶低加自命不凡的逞強(qiáng)是他的標(biāo)志，“首先，我是華裔；其次，我來(lái)自?shī)W蘭多。所以拜托了，朋友！”HebeganMr.Dazs“TheBriefWondrousLifeofOscarWao,”butstoppedafter100pages,wowedandflummoxed: “Ididntwanttostealhismoves.”Hedidntreturntoituntilhehad completedthefirstdraftofhisnewmemoir, “DoubleCupLove:OntheTrailofFamily,Food,andBrokenHeartsinChina” (Spiegel&Grau),whichwillbereleasedonTuesday.于是他讀了迪亞斯的奧斯卡瓦奧奇妙而短暫的一生(TheBriefWondrousLifeofOscarWao)，但是看了100頁(yè)就不敢往下看了，他感到驚嘆、困惑：“我根本沒(méi)想過(guò)偷他的點(diǎn)子?！焙髞?lái)他沒(méi)有再看這本書(shū)，直到寫(xiě)完最新回憶錄雙杯的愛(ài)：追溯家庭、食物與中國(guó)的傷心事（DoubleCupLove:OntheTrailofFamily,Food,andBrokenHeartsinChina，Spiegel&Grau出版社）的初稿，這本書(shū)將于周二出版發(fā)行?！癐waschasinghimthroughthelasteightrevisions,askingmyself, Doesthisgiveyoufeelingsonthatlevelthat“OscarWao”gaveyou?”Mr.Huangsaid. “IgotascloseasIcould.”“在最后的八次修改過(guò)程中，我一直都在追趕他的腳步，我問(wèn)自己：這一段能讓你產(chǎn)生像讀奧斯卡瓦奧時(shí)同樣的感覺(jué)嗎？”黃頤銘說(shuō)。“我已經(jīng)盡可能地去貼近了。”ItwascominguponmidnightinChelseawhenhesaidthis,andhewaswearingajubilantlyloudJ.W.Andersoncoatwithfathorizontalstripesinvaryingshadesofbrown.Itwascoldout,andafewfeetawaywastheGildedLily,theclubwherehewasabouttohostapartywiththefashiondesignerMaxwellOsborne,oftheaucourantduoPublicSchool.他在切爾西說(shuō)這番話的時(shí)候，時(shí)間已經(jīng)將近午夜，他穿著一件鮮艷喜慶的JW安德森(J.W.Anderson)牌外套，寬寬的棕色橫條紋呈現(xiàn)深淺不一的色調(diào)。外面的天氣很冷，幾英尺外便是“鍍金百合”(GildedLily)，他即將在這家夜店和“公立學(xué)?！?PublicSchool)品牌目前的雙人設(shè)計(jì)師之一馬克斯韋爾奧斯本(MaxwellOsborne)合作主持派對(duì)。Butbeforethat,onelastpoint. “PeoplealwayswanttocomparemetoTony,”Mr.Huangadded,referringtoAnthonyBourdain,themodernprototypeofchefturnedacidicsocial commentator. “ButIneverreadKitchenConfidential.IreadOscarWao.”但在此之前還有最后一件事?！叭藗兌枷肽梦液屯心嵯啾龋秉S頤銘說(shuō)，他指的是安東尼波登(AnthonyBourdain)，后者是從廚師轉(zhuǎn)型為辛辣社評(píng)家的現(xiàn)代原型?！暗俏覐膩?lái)沒(méi)讀過(guò)他的廚房秘辛(KitchenConfidential)，我讀的是奧斯卡瓦奧。”Foodis,asever,aTrojanhorseforMr.Huang,whointhepastfiveyearshasparlayedfame(andalittlebitofinfamy)asachefintoacareerofpining,bomb-tossingandtauntingsometimesgood-naturedly,sometimesbad-naturedly,sometimesboth.美食對(duì)于黃頤銘來(lái)說(shuō)猶如特洛伊木馬，過(guò)去五年來(lái)，身為廚師的他開(kāi)始打入評(píng)論界，對(duì)他人冷嘲熱諷、猛烈抨擊和奚落，有時(shí)候是善意的，有時(shí)是惡意的，有時(shí)二者兼有，從而漸漸為自己贏得了名聲（以及一點(diǎn)惡名）。Inadditiontohistwomemoirs(hisfirstwasturnedintoanABCsitcom),hesgivenamemorableTEDtalk(thenhadhisTEDfellowshiprescindedoverdisagreementswiththefoundation);writtentheoccasionalscathingtakedownarticle;beenfeaturedinaSpritecommercial;andhostedanInternetshowaboutglobalfoodculture,whichhasmorphedintothetelevisionshow“HuangsWorld,”onViceland.除了兩本回憶錄（他的第一部回憶錄被ABC臺(tái)拍成了情景喜?。?，他還做過(guò)兩次令人難忘的TED演講（然后他因?yàn)榕cTED基金會(huì)不合，被取消了TED伙伴資格）；寫(xiě)過(guò)那篇夾雜著尖刻抨擊的文章；拍過(guò)雪碧廣告；主持過(guò)一次全球美食文化網(wǎng)絡(luò)秀，之后這個(gè)節(jié)目被搬上電視，變成了Viceland臺(tái)的節(jié)目黃的世界(HuangsWorld)。Throughout,hip-hophasbeenhisframeworkandorganizingnarrative.Onthedifferencebetweenhisfirstmemoirandthenewone: “FreshOfftheBoatisamixtapetheCamronmixtapebeforePurpleHaze; DoubleCupLoveisthealbum.Ismoothedthingsout,Imixedit, Iwassurgicalaboutit.”總的來(lái)說(shuō)，嘻哈樂(lè)是他的整體構(gòu)架，以及組織敘事的方式。他談起自己兩本回憶錄之間的不同：“上一本初來(lái)乍到猶如混錄磁帶錄的都是Camron在推出紫霧(PurpleHaze)之前唱的歌；而雙杯的愛(ài)則已成為一張正式專輯。我把事情整理好，混在一起，再給它來(lái)個(gè)手術(shù)。”O(jiān)nthebridge-burningarticlehewroteforNewYorkMagazineabouthowABCs“FreshOfftheBoat”sanitizedhischildhood: “ThatsKendrick, Control.Mejustbeefing.”在他給紐約雜志(NewYorkMagazine)寫(xiě)的那篇關(guān)于ABC臺(tái)的電視劇初來(lái)乍到的評(píng)論里，他毫不留情面地批評(píng)這部劇美化了自己的童年：“就像是肯德里克(Kendrick)的控制(Control)，我只是在抱怨。”AndontherelativelyfallowperiodbetweenhistwobooksandhispublicfallingoutwithABC: “I feellikeFuturerightnowafterPluto peopledefinitelyleftmefordead.”他如此形容這兩本書(shū)之間相對(duì)的蟄伏期，以及他與ABC臺(tái)公開(kāi)鬧翻：“我覺(jué)得自己就像推出普魯托(Pluto)這張專輯之后的歌手Future人們肯定只等著我死?！盜n“DoubleCupLove,”Mr.Huang, 34,whowasborninFallsChurch,Va.,nearWashington,to Taiwaneseimmigrants,andraisedinOrlando,Fla.,detailshisparallelquestsforacceptance :byChina,andbyawomanhefellforandeventuallyproposedto. “IdontthinkIwasever abletobeasclosewithsomeoneasIwaswithher,andIdontthinkIwaseverasabletobe comfortablewithbeingChineseasIwaswithChengdu,”hesaid.黃頤銘現(xiàn)年34歲，出生于華盛頓附近弗吉尼亞州福爾斯徹奇(FallsChurch)的一個(gè)臺(tái)灣移民家庭，在佛羅里達(dá)州的奧蘭多長(zhǎng)大；在雙杯的愛(ài)中，他詳盡地?cái)⑹隽俗约簩で蠼邮艿膬蓷l平行線索：期望被中國(guó)認(rèn)同的過(guò)程，以及期待心愛(ài)的女人接受自己的過(guò)程，最后他向她求婚了?！拔矣X(jué)得同她在一起比同任何人在一起都親密；我也覺(jué)得自己只有在成都才能輕松自在地當(dāng)個(gè)中國(guó)人，”他說(shuō)。ExclusionisacontinuingthemeofMr.Huangswork,andheoftenfindshimselfatodds,he said,withAsian-Americanswhofeelhisstoryisntappropriatelyrepresentative. “Alotof peoplearetryingtoactivelycontainmyvoice,like, Hedoesntspeakforus,andImlike, I wontarguewithyou.”O(jiān)ften,hesaid,hespeaksatcollegeswherethemainquestionhes askedis,inessence, “Howdidyoulearntoloveyourself?”“排斥”是黃頤銘書(shū)中一直延續(xù)的主題，他說(shuō)，他經(jīng)常覺(jué)得自己和他人格格不入，亞裔美國(guó)人覺(jué)得他的故事不具有代表性。“很多人努力試圖遏制我的聲音，比如，他沒(méi)有為我們說(shuō)話，我說(shuō)，我才不跟你們吵呢?！彼f(shuō)，他在大學(xué)里演講時(shí)，最常被問(wèn)到的問(wèn)題本質(zhì)上其實(shí)就是，“你是怎么學(xué)會(huì)愛(ài)你自己的？”Mr.Huangswritingiswryandzippy;heregardstheworldwithanunderstandingofits absurditiesandinjusticesandwithawillingnesstobesurprised.Thedarkedgeof“FreshOff theBoat”ismostlygoneinthenewbook,replacedwithanacceptanceofcalminhislife.黃頤銘的文風(fēng)熱情而充滿諷刺；他了解這個(gè)世界的荒誕與不公，同時(shí)又愿意得到驚喜。初來(lái)乍到中陰暗的鋒芒在新書(shū)中幾乎消失了，代之以對(duì)平靜人生的接受?！癉oubleCupLove”wasoriginallyproposedasabookinwhichMr.HuangwouldtraveltoChina totrycookingforlocals,butitturnedintoamemoiraboutlove.Neitherofhisbooksisreally aboutfood “itsallwindowdressing,”hesaid.雙杯的愛(ài)原本的計(jì)劃是讓黃頤銘去中國(guó)旅行，寫(xiě)一寫(xiě)為當(dāng)?shù)厝伺腼兊墓适?，結(jié)果卻成了一本關(guān)于愛(ài)的回憶錄。他的兩本書(shū)其實(shí)全都不是關(guān)于美食的“那只是櫥窗的裝飾物而已，”他說(shuō)。Headded:“Whenyouliveinaplacewhereyouarenotthedominantculture,youhavetoplay foolsagainstthemselves.YouregoingtoassumeIcankungfu,youregoingtoassumeIcan cookfood,andImgoingtoplaythisagainstyou.”他補(bǔ)充說(shuō)：“如果在你生活的地方里，你自己的文化并不是支配文化，你就得靠裝傻來(lái)對(duì)抗他們。你得假裝自己會(huì)功夫，你得假裝自己能烹飪美食，我就靠這個(gè)來(lái)對(duì)抗你們?！盨till,eveniffoodisonlythecostume,itoccupiesacentralroleinMr.Huangslife.Beforethe partyattheGildedLily,Mr.Huanghadbegunhiseveningcookingaprivatedinnerforamusic lawyerandsomeassociates,includingFlorenceWelch(ofFlorenceandtheMachine)andthe songwriter-producerEmileHaynie.Afterthat,itwasontoSushiYasudainMidtown,foraseat atthecounterandsomefawningovertheomakase,withrunningcommentryafterhe poppedeachpieceintohismouthwithhishands.然而，就算美食只是一種道具，它仍然在黃頤銘的生活里扮演了核心角色。在“鍍金百合”的派對(duì)之前，黃頤銘還在一家私廚烹制晚餐，出席的是一位音樂(lè)界的律師和他的若干朋友，包括“佛羅倫斯與機(jī)器”(Florenceand theMachine)樂(lè)隊(duì)的佛羅倫斯韋爾奇(FlorenceWelch)，以及作曲家兼制作人艾